Marinière Fashion Week 2017, collection Jean Paul Gautier

Le retour d’un classique : la Marinière

La marinière cet indémodable est de retour sur les podiums pour la saison printemps été 2017. Vu sur les défilés des plus grands créateurs, la marinière se revisite à l’infini mais ne se démode jamais. Zoom sur la tendance marine qui nous fera encore craquer cet été.

La marinière : naissance d’un mythe

Audrey Hepburn portant un marinière.

Audrey Hepburn est une des premières actrices à s’afficher avec une marnière dans les années 50.

Originellement cet uniforme était porté par les matelots de la marine nationale, c’était en effet plus facile pour les repérer quand ils tombaient à la mer. Bien que simple, ce tricot blanc rayé de bleu indigo est vite devenu un incontournable dans les dressings de toutes et de tous.

La marinière a tout d’abord été mise en valeur dans le monde de la mode par la grande Coco Chanel qui lance dans sa deuxième boutique à Deauville, la collection « Style Marin ». Ce maillot indémodable sera ensuite repris par de nombreux créateurs de la Maison notamment, Karl Lagerfeld, qui voulant respecter l’héritage de la Maison la revisita pour ces collections de prêt à porter estivales « collection croisière».  La marinière devient l’incarnation du chic à la française en été.

Après des apparitions dans quelques films et sur des stars de l’époque tels que Picasso ou Brigitte Bardot, c’est dans les années 80 qu’un certain Jean Paul Gautier la fait revivre et surtout la transforme. Il crée ainsi la marinière dans tous ses états, il ne se contente plus de ce simple maillot ; dans ses mains elle se transforme en chemise, robe du soir ou encore foulard. Gautier crée même une collection qui lui est entièrement dédiée en 1983 avec la collection « ToyBoy », et en vient même à l’utiliser pour le design de son flacon de parfum « Le Mâle ». La marinière devient à ce moment l’emblème du couturier et sa marque de fabrique.

C’est dans les années 2010 que la marinière fait un retour remarqué dans le monde de la mode, avec des revisites originales de la part de nombreuses marques, comme par exemple Kenzo qui crée des marinières à pois, Sonia Rykiel qui lance sa marinière multicolore devenue depuis un best seller chez les Fashionistas, Prada qui décide de commercialiser une marinière à bande plus larges (elles sont de 1cm dans la version originale). Aussi la grande agence de mannequin Elite décide aussi de mettre ce tricot en valeur en faisant poser les finalistes de son fameux concours annuel avec une version échancrée de la marinière.

Des défilés aux blogueuses

Sincerly Jules porte une marinière avec une jupe imprimé

La blogueuse Sincerly Jules revisite la marinière.

Allant aussi bien aux hommes qu’aux femmes, aux rayures fines ou larges, horizontales ou verticales, se portant avec presque avec tout, la marinière est devenu un indispensable dans toutes les gardes de robes, comme nous le montrent les blogueuses mode, nouvelles reines de la planète fashion. Gigi Hadid, Olivia Palermo, Sincerly Jules toutes ces It-girls adoptent le style de la French Riviera.

La plus grande fan étant Sincerely Jules (de son  vrai nom Julie Sarinana), blogueuse californienne que tout le monde adore suivre, puisqu’elle comptabilise plus de  4 millions de followers sur son compte Instagram. Avec son style casual chic, elle nous présente la marinière à la française que ce soit porté avec une petite jupe noire classique, un jean ou un blazer pour le cote BCBG. Elle nous prouve que la marinière a sa place aussi bien au bureau qu’en week-end. Elle nous surprend surtout lorsqu’elle la transforme en tenue de soirée. On peut donc dire que ce maillot se marie avec tous les bons basiques. Pour la tendance 2017, optez pour la marinière sous une robe chasuble ou une robe salopette en jean.

La tendance marine

La tendance Marine commence à se développer doucement au-delà de la mythique Marinière, comme nous le montre Cédric Charlier durant la fashion week automne hiver 2016. Pour obtenir un look marin vous pouvez décider d’associer différentes pièces ou accessoires comme par exemple la veste bleu marine sertie de boutons dorés à porter avec un pantalon blanc, une robe ou encore une jupe. Une simple association de couleur peut aussi apporter sa touche marine, le trio gagnant est bien sur le bleu, blanc, rouge, un mélange à faire intelligemment pour ne pas ressembler à notre cher drapeau, on vous conseille donc d’utiliser le rouge ,couleur la plus flashy, avec parcimonie , par petite touche avec par exemple un sac, une ceinture ou une paire de chaussure. Les bijoux deviennent eux aussi des accessoires de rêve, en haut du classement nous retrouvons : les bracelets ancres de chez Tom Ford, qui est devenu le Must Have de l’année ou encore les boucles d’oreilles de chez l’Ancre D’or. Si vous êtes totalement accro à cette tendance et/ou adorer l’océan, vous pouvez le graver sur votre peau, tout comme notre chère top model Kate Moss, qui porte un tatouage ancre au poignet. 

Ce vêtement marin a largement obtenu ses lettres de noblesses, et il est devenu un must have dans tous nos placards. Présent sur de nombreux défilés de la Fashion Week Printemps Été 2017, la marinière n’a pas fini de faire parler d’elle. Signe d’élégance et de chic décontracté elle est une source d’inspiration inépuisable pour tous les créateurs du 21e siècle. La Marinière est et restera une pièce indémodable de notre garde de robe, qui se réinvente à travers de nouvelles matières, couleurs et motifs pour toujours rester tendance et nous faire voyager sur les bords des plages et sur les bateaux.

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